Garlic Growing Guide - Maintaining garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Maintaining Garlic is generally a low maintenance crop. It does not need a lot of effort, but it be can be affected by pests and disease than many other vegetables. Thus, garlic does need some attention while growing and these are some key aspects to consider. Additives Fertilising In addition to preparing the soil before planting it is good to have a fertiliser regime while the plants are growing which consists of at least two phases. Nitro gen is important for leaf growth and is needed early on in leaf growth. Phosphorous is important for root development in the later phase of the plants' life. The first stage is for leaf growth where nitrogen is important. In mild winter climates garlic will grow up to 12 + leaves, while in colder climates less than 12 leaves are produced. Regular monthly fertiliser applications up until the maximum leaf number is obtained will support good leaf health. We apply a general organic fertiliser or blood and bone during this time. It is important to keep a regular fertiliser regime (monthly) during except over winter if the day temperatures are below 12 ° C. In winter rainfall leaches out the nutrients, while in spring the soils are beginning to warm - cold soils do not aid in nutrient uptake. So it is best to maintain a good regular balance of fertiliser just after planting and when the soils warm up in spring. The second stage is bulbing which occurs once the plant nearly reaches the max imum number of leaves before maturing. This is called the transition stage for the plant. At this point, potassium is important for root development as the plant is putting its energy into bulb growth. We apply a general organic potash during this time. Note that each garlic type has a different growing habit. Some are slow to shoot while some take off, some have floppy leaves while others have a very upright appearance. The picture below shows some of the different types all planted at the same time. Mulching Once garlic cloves are in the ground it i s worth considering whether to use mulch on top of the soil, particularly to suppress weeds . While we at Gourmet Garlic do not top cover (we use mulch on farrow beds though) others use mulch in different locations around the country . Often mild to cool winter areas, particularly near the coastal areas need not apply mulch unless the garlic is affected by salt spray or other local conditions. It is best not to apply mulch in wet climate areas. Mulch moderates the soil temperature, and reduces the effect of extremes like snow. In saying that garlic originates in cold extremes and our young garlic shoots in the deep south have no problem surviving with a foot of snow covering them in winter. Few places in the country experience permafrost for weeks on end, unlike some in Siberia, Canada and other northern hemisphere higher latitudes. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds and adds nutrients to the soil. It also has its disadvantages in that it can also keep the soil temperature damp and cool during spring, slowing growth and it can foster disease, mo u lds, pests. It is better to apply mulch after winter for adding nitrogen and reducing weeds. In spring it can suppress the weeds and conditions are warmer reducing the chances of mulch being a cold waterlogged mat. Choose the mulch that holds the least amount of water, overseas sugar cane mulch fits this criteria. There is a bit of an art to using mulch. Mulch should not be too heavy or dense, it should be light and fluffy for shoots to pop through - generally 2-10cm of depth is a good guide. There are a variety of mulch options such as hay, straw, grass clippings and a mix of chopped up leaves. Choose a m ulch source wit h few weed seeds. We do not recommend using black plastic weedmat. The soil can rise above 50 degrees a few centremetres down into the soil stressing the roots and culturing disease. It is better to use this material it for the side linings of beds. If you live in a windy area and are using light mulch such as hay or dried leaves, consider wetting it to reduce its movement around the garden. Mulch is normally removed in spring and if it gets waterlogged it may prevent garlic shoots from rising to the surface. Some growers apply mulch once the shoots are several centimetres high. Watering Garlic should never be allowed to dry out, but should never be saturated ... it should be moist not wet . Roots are shallow (although can descend 60cm) but can still need deep watering. Watering is relatively intuitive often a finger test of dampness is all that is needed. If in doubt purchase a cheap moisture plunger or dig down beside the plant to spade depth and test soil conditions. If the leaf edge is beginning to yellow this is one possible first sign that the plant is deficient in moisture. The most ideal time to water is morning during sunny and warm conditions allowing the plant to dry out and reducing the risk of disease. It is not best practice to water (via a overhead method) in the evening or night as this will result in prolonged leaf wetness which can encourage disease and rust spores. Some places in winter and early spring, like here in the deep south need no or very little additional water in winter or early spring. Of course, those with sandy soils, warmer winters or dry and windy places will need a watering regime to achieve ideal soil moisture conditions even in winter. In these places (particularly without mulch) it might be necessary to water every day or every second day. Consider using a drip system. Sprinklers can wet leaves which encourages garlic rust and other diseases to take hold. It is also important to know when to stop watering. Yes, for garlic the 2-4 weeks before harvesting it is necessary to stop . At this point bulbs are drying out and are vulnerable to excess moisture. Rainfall or continued watering up to harvest time can cause storage rot plus the bulb wrapper can split and be stained. Note that once bulbing begins (8-10 weeks before harvest), the plants immune system becomes inactive and they are more prone to basal or root rot diseases. Weeds Weeding Even with using mulch , persistent weeds can still break through the soil seeking any available light. Wild garlic evolved in the cold mountains of Central Asia. They had little competition in their arid homeland and as a result grew only a few slender leaves which are unable to be replaced. As a result, garlic does not tolerate completion from weeds. It is necessary to keep on top of weeds as soon as they rise out of the soil. Weeds not only shade the garlic leaves but also drain nutrients from the soil and can cause premature bulbing. It is good practice to regularly weed and give garlic the best chance to grow large heathy bulbs. Scapes Scape Removal T he scape is a flower stem and is mostly associated with hardneck garlic types. Before harvesting, hardnec k garlic typically sends up a scape which normally curls then straightens before the garlic is harvested (softneck garlic can scape when stressed). Semi-bolting hardneck types (creole , turban , asiatic ) in milder-winter areas do not necessarily produce a scape. The garlic plant puts energy into forming the scape so many growers remove them to direct the plants resources into developing the bulb. We have found there is a direct correlation of bulb size and scape removal of around 10-30%. We remove the scape before they begin to curl, before they are longer than 20cm tall. If removing the scape, do so on a dry day so the break can heal cleanly without introducing infection and disease. When you see the firm stalk rise up from the middle of the leaves snap (not pull) it off the stalk by hand (if the scape is small) or with secateurs below the umbel before it widens. If the scape is pulled, it may result in the pseudostem becoming weak and will let water down into the bulb. More information is available on our garlic scape page. WarningSigns Warning Signs While garlic is a pretty hardy plant, i t can be affected by range of pest species (nearly 100) and the first warning signs once planted are irregular 'roguing' growth. A garlic grower should be regularly inspecting the garlic growth to find the first signs of irregular growth early. Garlic is one of the most susceptible annuals to disease for three main reasons. Firstly the cloves and bulbils are clones of the plant so unlike seed it can carry forward and accumulates disease to future generations. Secondly bulbs grow in the damp soil and for a long time where they are exposed and vulnerable to a whole range of soil borne diseases. Thirdly there are few infield treatments to cure many garlic diseases. For bacterial and viral issues there is almost no treatment options, while fungal issues only has limited options. The best method is crop rotation, raising the soil, planting good stock and removing rogue shoots early. The first sign is the plant having smaller, yellowing or shriveled leaves compared to others in the bed. It is worth inspecting plants regularly to catch these rogue sick plants as they will never grow into healthy ones. Also, be careful to remove them including the surrounding soil before disposing. To leave sick plants in the soil increases the disease and affects soil health and nearby garlic. Most fungal issues can be reduced by practicing crop rotation (recommended 3+ years), choosing good planting stock, having good watering practices and planting a variety of garlic groups known as polyculture. Once shooting begins look out for the warning signs of disease or other non-uniform growth. While it is handy to have early season garlic like turbans and asiatics , the mid to late harvesting garlics are generally are less prone to seasonal pest and diseases as the season warms up. Garlic produces roots first, before sending out shoots. In mild-winter climates where cloves are planted shal l ower, shoots are likely to appear 1-2 weeks after planting. In such climates where the daytime temperature is above 12°C then leaf growth will continue through winter. In colder climates it can take up to six weeks for leaves to appear. In colder climates only 3-6 leaves will initially grow before the plant goes into dormancy. Once spring arrives and temperatures exceed 14°C, then leaf growth resumes. Note that standard purple stripe and sometimes the porcelain garlic group has an 'alien' early growth form where they lie flat with the ground. Porcelain is also known to be the most susceptible to having viruses. The three main categories of garlic problems, having diseases , unusual growth or affected by pests . Our page on common garlic problems discusses the main garlic diseases encountered by growers in NZ, the irregular growth that an occur and common pests.

Ten tips to follow to get the best chance of healthy big garlic bulbs TOP 10 TIPS Disappointed each season with small, weak and poorly performing garlic bulbs? These are our top 10 tips for the best chances of harvesting the largest, healthiest and the best looking garlic bulbs. 1) Choose the right garlic type Each of the ten garlic groups prefers a particular climate zone. We have divided the country into three main garlic growing zones . Choosing the right garlic for your climate zone is the first step for growing big healthy garlic bulbs. 2) Prepare your garden bed Pick a sunny spot . I f possible use a garden bed which has not had any allium species (leek, onion, chives) in it for the past couple of years and ensure that your soil is rich in nutrients, light and well drained. Our guide offers more detail on garden preparation. 3) Pick the best time to plant The old saying 'plant on the shortest day and harvest on the longest' is a very rough guideline. Planting really depends on your climate zone and the type of garlic grown. Check out our planting guide for when to plant. 4) Find big cloves from big bulbs It's so important to only plant big cloves from big bulbs - research shows this provides the best results. Planting small cloves will almost always return poor results. If possible try to obtain bulbs from a higher altitude and southern latitude from your garden. These cloves from such bulbs will have more vigour when taken to a warmer and lower elevation. 5) Follow best planting practices Plant cloves not bulbs. The clove tip should sit to the top, and ideally planted 20x20cm apart and 2-7cm deep (the colder the deeper). For more planting information following our planting guide . 6) Dispose of the rogues Find the rogues! Keep a close eye on your crop for common problems or unusual coloration of leaves. Whether this be yellowing (nutrient or an infection), brooming, or multiple shoots. If it's affecting the occasional plant then dispose of it, if there are many then it might be a nutrient deficiency, a disease or a pest. 7) Fertilise y our soils While it is important to have your soils rich in nutrients prior to planting, it' s more important to put on th e right fert iliser at the right time. Choose organic slow release nitrogen fertiliser at regular intervals in spring (eg. blood and bone) for leaf growth. At maximum leaf number ( in most places 10-12), stop and change to an organic slow release potassium fertiliser (eg. potash) to enhance bulbing. 8) Weed, weed and weed! Garlic hates competition. Some growers use mulch to suppress weeds , while others do the hard mahi by hand. Either way, weed free soil ensures the best chance of larger bulbs. 9) Remove the scapes Most hardneck garlic will produce a scape, especially if you live in a cool to cold winter climate. While some hardneck garlics respond differently to scape removal, but it's best to remove the scape to give you a greater chance of a 10-30% bigger bulb. 10) Know when to harvest Harvest time depends on your climate zone and type of garlic grown. Harvest too early and bulbs have not matured, while harvesting too late results in the bulb skin splitting and will not store as long. Stop watering a month out , and follow our harvesting guide to know when to harvest your big healthy garlic bulbs.

Garlic Growing Guide - Planting garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Planting Planting is an exciting time in the garden, physically working the soil and starting new beginnings for your garlic crop. When to Plant When to Plant G arlic is generally planted in autumn, with the exact time dependent on your climate and the garlic group you are plan ting. The saying 'plant on the longest day and harvest on the shortest' is a rough rule of thumb which does not take account climate variations and garlic types. Check out the map and chart below to match your climate to the type of garlic you are likely to grow most successfully. Timing is a fine balance with nature, local microclimates and seasonal variability, and the best timing is not always achieved. For milder winters garlic is planted earlier and a bit later in colder areas. Garlic needs to be planted to send out roots before being struck with the winter extremes of driving wind, generally drier cooler air and chilling exposure. The strongly bolting hardneck garlics are more hardy in cold climates. Those in extremely cold areas should plant a month before the soil begins to freeze giving the garlic time to grow roots. Some growers in more mild, humid climates who get persistent garlic rus t (a fungi) plant earlier to harvest earlier thus reducing the impact of this fungi in the warmer months when rust can be prolific. Some try growing turban or asiatic garlic which matures and is harvested earlier than other garlics. However by artificially vernalising and planting early plants are more at risk of secondary shooting (witches broom) or results in smaller bulb sizes. Climate Zone Map Generally the first garlic to be planted are the semi-b olting garlics of turban , creole and asiatic . These garlics are well adapted to long seasons and milder winters because they are more domesticated. The strongly bolting garlics of porcelain , rocambole , standard purple stripe , marbled purple stripe , glazed purple stripe and the softneck artichokes should be planted a little later. Silverskins are the last to be planted in June-August depending on where in the country you live. Consider the for your climate zone, your local conditions and the type of garlic you are considering growing to decide the best time to plan t . NZ Garlic Climatic Zones MILD WINTER COOL WINTER COLD WINTER What to Plant What t o Plant First things first, plant garlic cloves not bulbs - c loves are the divided segments that make up each bulb. The clove skin is not removed. While it is possible to plant the entire bulb, bulbils or true seed (near impossible to find in NZ), the average NZ gardener plants cloves in their vegetable garden. If planting bulb ils for the first year you actually plant the m at the same time as cloves or you can also plant them in spring as well. Secondly, cloves are planted with the pointy end up. The stumpy end has the basal plate from which the root buds will begin to swell in autumn ready for planting. Plants will send down their roots from the basal plate deep into the soil in the cold winter months well before any leaf growth comes out of the pointy top end. Cloves planted upside down will grow but are likely to have stunted growth using a lot of their stored energy to find the surface . Plant only the largest and healthiest cloves. There is a direct correlation between parent bulb size and harvested bulb size. Research suggests there is a ten-fold significance in success in bulb size based on large bulbs compared to large cloves. Also, cloves from a large bulb will generally have a larger harvest bulb compared to the same size clove from a smaller bulb. Interestingly massive bulbs with more cloves have a poorer survival rate. Yet there will always be variation in growing bulbs but consider using large cloves from large bulbs to produce healthy , plump garlic bulbs. Do not plant cloves from bulbs purchased from a shop that is sourced from beyond our shores. Overseas garlic (you can tell because most supermarkets will state the country of origin and/or their roots will be entirely chopped off) poses a disease risk to our soils. Overseas garlic is normally treated with methyl bromide during fumigation and is also likely to have sprout inhibitors. How to Plant How to Plant Garlic Beds or Pots Depending on how much garlic you wish to grow and how much space you have, you might need to form a garlic bed. Garlic can also be successfully grown in pots, however avoid plastic pots where possible as it does not permit the soil to breath compared to clay pots. For pots they should be ideally be 50x50x50cm in dimension if growing only a few. A kiwi typical family (if there is such a thing?) might use 10-20 garlic bulbs per year. Depending on the type of garlic this means a family might need around three bulbs for planting with an average 6-8 cloves per bulb. However, some cannot get enough garlic to eat and might consume 100+/year thus needing at least 10-15 bulbs to divide into 100+ cloves to plant in their garlic bed. Check out the garlic planning diagram to determine how many plantable cloves for each type of garlic. If you wish to only grow a small number of cloves then you could just find a small pocket in your vegetable garden to poke them in. It is worth putting a few sticks into the soil to delineate where you planted them since they are in for a long time. If you have a dozen or more cloves then it is worth designating an area as a garlic bed. If growing in a free-draining raised bed there is no need to mound up the soil. If planting into a ground-level bed then consider raising the soil 20-30cm to ensure that the bed does not get waterlogged during the colder winter months or during those spring deluges that occur particularly up north. We grow ours on 30cm mounds, with the troughs for walking between rows filled in using wood mulch. We make our garlic beds no wider than a metre. This ensures that we can reach all parts of the soil from both sides when planting, applying organic fertiliser, removing scapes and during weeding. Spac ing T he more space you can give an individual clove the better. Wild garlic origins are from the cold and sparse highlands of Central Asia where there is little competition and thus garlic developed to only grow a few thin leaves. Spacing should allow the plant to maximise exposure to sunlight (> photosynthesis), root mass (> nutrient uptake) and air circulation (< risk of disease such as rust). The more space you give garlic the more sunlight and uptake of nutrients will occur from the soil. At Gourmet Garlic we have done several spacing trials and found that planting cloves only a few extra centimetres further apart makes a massive difference to plant health and bulb size. If you want to plant just a bulb or a couple worth of cloves then a short row or two can be planted in the garden bed beside other vegetables - keep in mind that garlic leaves can rise up to a metre tall and may shade other plants. While we are a small commercial grower, like the average home gardener we do not use machinery. Also like the home gardener we would love more room to plant garlic. W e plant our garlic cloves 12cm apart with 20cm spacing between rows. This gives us around 40 cloves per square metre. The generally accepted method is 10-15cm apart in rows 15-30cm apart. Ideally, we would like to have more room for them and space cloves further apart (even our trials tell us this) such as 20x20cm apart (25 cloves/square metre) but our garden space just like at home is at a premium. Our pathways between beds are 40cm wide allowing for a narrow walkway between beds to inspect the plants, undertake weeding, and remove scapes. If you have a lot of garlic to plant consider making a dibble hole jig. The jig will create several holes in the soil at the right soil depth across your row in one go. Ours is simply a narrow strip of wood just over a metre long, with five protruding bolts to make the row. On each bolt we have used a small strip of watering hose as a sleeve between the bolt head and timber. Our spacing and depth are shown in the diagram below. Depth The depth to plant cloves depends on your climate zone and the size of the clove. Those with mild winters barely have to poke the clove into the soil. This would mean the top of the clove sits only a couple of centimetres from the surface. Those with cool winters should plant with 2-5cm of soil on top. In cold climates, it is suggested to plant cloves 5-7cm below the soil surface to protect the clove from the winter extremes and to reduce the chance of frost heaving the clove to the surface. If the clove is large then consider placing it slightly deeper to allow for the longer length of the clove. It is not an exact science. Generally the top of the clove should have a covering of at least 2cm. If your soil is light then you might also sow deep as the roots have a tendency to push the clove upwards during winter and exposed them at the surface. If this happens carefully dig a minor pit beside the clove and put the clove deeper without disturbing the roots. Method This is a simple process. Make the holes for the cloves to the relevant depth. You could use your index finger to make hole and pop the clove in or use a jig. Ensure that the soil is moist, otherwise it will dry out the clove hampering growth and germination. Take a clove from an earlier cracked bulb. Holding the wider base, place the clove into the hole with the pointy end up. Once a row is completed gently apply soil to cover the holes. Early harvesting garlics like turban and asiatic garlic will take about a 1-2 weeks to show leaves, while mid-late harvesting garlics could take six weeks as they rely on cold soil temperatures to trigger leaf development. You can always check root and leaf development by gently digging down in the soil to check.

Creole garlic type Creole Garlic Group Mid Season | Long Storing | 5-10 cloves The Flamboyant: this small one is hot, dresses in vibrant rosy clove skins, and is a real crowd-pleaser Creole is a very popular mid-season semi-hardneck garlic. It grows best in warmer climates with mild winters. This garlic group produces several cloves per bulb with strongly coloured rose to crimson clove skins. It grows best in a mild winter climate . The Creole is a semi-bolting hardneck type meaning it generally sends up a flower scape with a relatively solid stem which is not braidable. This garlic might not produce scapes when grown in warmer climates if not vernalised . The garlic has a very hot, complex and spicy garlic taste which is considered to be a sweet, rich and exceptional flavour. Characteristics Clove & Bulb Appearance The bulb is normally round and generally has a white to cream bulb wrapper (skin) containing between 5-10 cloves. The bulbs are typically small er than most garlic varieties and have a single layer of cloves. Generally all cloves of a standard-sized bulb are of a size suitable for planting. The clove skin (not to be confused with the bulb skin) has a distinctive bright rose, burgundy to crimson colour. The cloves are typically wedge shaped with a sharp inner edge and will store for 12+ months in ideal conditions - one of the longest of any garlic type. Bulbils T his hardneck garlic generally sends out a scap e (flower stalk) particularly in colder climates. They typically produce 30-40 medium purple bulbils . Leaves & Scapes Creoles have a r eally wide leaf which is very short and tend to fold over halfway up. The leaf colour is pale green to yellow. Scapes tend to form a downward 'U' shape, with a slim yellow-g reen umbel .

Garlic Growing Guide - Overview of growing garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic The Basics Garlic is a sorely misunderstood plant. It is considered to be a food, a spice and a herb. It is a perennial root species grown as an annual root vegetable. What most of us see as a millimeter -thin root base is actually the stem, the edible cloves are swollen leaves, and the bulbs swell only when the plant is dying. Garlic has a unique smell and taste and proven antibiotic and anti-inflammatory powers but the jury is still out as to whether or not it wards off demons, werewolves and vampires . What is Garlic What is Garlic? Garlic is one of the 800 Allium (onion, leek and chive) species and one of just seven that are cultivated. It is the slowest vegetable to mature. Garlic is a single species ( Allium sativum ), and is divided into two sub-species being sativum (non-bolting types silverskin and artichoke varietal groups) and A. ophioscrorodon (bolting types of turban , creole , asiatic , porcelain , rocambole , standard purple stripe , marbled purple stripe and glazed purple stripe varietal groups). Effectively the two sub-species are distinguished by softneck garlic which that does not send up flower stalks, and the hardnecks that do. Knowing how to distinguish the parts of the plant and how the plant grows will help you with your own crop. We could say: get to know your garlic before you grow your garlic. Garlic consists of several parts as the diagram below illustrates. Garlic Plant Diagram Garlic Bulb Diagram Roots & Basal Plate From bottom to top a mature garlic plant consists roots, flat basal plate that roots come out of, and an underground true stem which holds the bulb with one or more layers of cloves under its skin (wrapper). Bulbs The bulb consists of a cluster of cloves. In a softneck bulb the cloves are arranged normally in three layers (the smallest in the centre) forming an oblong bulb shape. Softneck have two fertile leaves which support the bulb development. In a hardneck bulb the cloves generally have a single radial appearance with one fertile leaf. Depending on the location in New Zealand and the garlic group (cultivar), garlic clove is planted between March and June and harvested in November to February. Garlic develops its roots first and then produces leaves later - normally 1-2 weeks later for early harvesting garlic, and up to six weeks for late harvesting types. In the germination period in autumn and early winter the plant will produce 3-6 leaves before the cold harshest part of winter begins. During winter if the temperature is below 12°C (a temperature below which the plant is dormant) the garlic plant will have little to no growth. Once spring appears and temperatures rise above the dormant temperature the garlic rapidly grows and expands. Bulb for mation is dependent on a prolonged cold period, followed by warming spring weather, and increasing daylight length. When the air temperature and soils warm, the plant rapidly grows for 3-4 weeks before forming a bulb. Some garlic groups need more or less of these factors fo r bulb swelling. Bulbs and cloves grown in colder climates will generally be bigger (particularly the strongly bolting hardnecks) but with fewer cloves. Clove s The cloves (2-30) cling together and are the part of the plant that most people divide, eat or plant to grow their next garlic crop from the bulb. The shape of the different garlic group cloves vary. Leaves & Scapes The bulb supports the tall and narrow pseudostem or false stem (technically they are leaves) plus a cluster of leaves. The pseudostem is supple for A. sativum or softnecks (the ones you can plait) or firm for the A . ophioscrorodon hardnecks. Normally, cutting the bulb off the strong stalk of the hardneck after drying requires secateurs. The eight hardneck varietal groups generally send up a long, strong stalk late in the season known as a scape. Bulbils The eight hardneck varietal groups generally send up a long, strong stalk late in the season known as a scape. The scapes' flower stalk (technically an umbel) produces bulbils - this is a secondary survival mechanism for the plant. Bulbils' size can be rice-sized to pea-sized depending on the varietal group. They are in fact clones of the plant just like the bulb and cloves. While people often call bulbs or cloves seed this is not strictly correct, it's just that until recently that was the only way to garlic could be grown. Around the bulbils of the scapes, flowers can form. For more about bulbils, visit our bulbil planting section . True Seed Very rarely the flowers can produce viable black-sand sized seed known as 'true seed' or TGS. With prolonged cultivation (asexual using cloves) over thousands of years, garlic has almost lost the ability to sexually reproduce. It's a marvel for anyone to grow and produce garlic seed these days which normally comes from the purple stripe cultivars with strongly bolting and flowering plants. These are the closest relatives of the old wild garlic. True seed generally does not carry over viruses and has increased vigour allowing growers to selectively breed desirable traits. In NZ it is rare to find someone trying to grow garlic true seed, rarer for the flower to open and seed to form, and nearly impossible for the seed to be fertile and grow into new garlic. We would be keen to learn of any kiwi TGS legends out there. For more about to grow garlic true seed, visit our true seed section . Lifecycle Being the longest growing annual crop, garlic has several stages that take several months to pass through to reach maturity. A planted clove needs to send down roots first before sprouting before winter. The first signs of any diseased cloves can be found at seedling stage with rogue plants. Over winter in colder areas the plant does not grow while in warmer areas slow leaf growth continues. It is not advisable to apply any fertiliser during this cold period as there will be little uptake. In early spring the plant puts alot of its energy into stalk thickening and leaf growth. By late spring and early summer the plant transitions with scapes and some leaves begin browning off as the plant puts its energy into bulb development. The leaves are vulnerable to disease garlic rust at this stage. The final stage is when when bulbs develop cloves and they begin to swell. By now many leaves are browned off and the bulb and basal plate is most vulnerable to wet weather diseases which might be brought over to when it is harvested and cured. Garlic Origins Origins Wild garlic originates in the cold climate of central Asia, on the north-western side of Tien Shan - the 'mountains of heaven'. This long mountain range borders Uzbekistan in the west and China and Mongolia in the east. Wild garlic still grows here and its clos est rel ative is the Standard Purple Stripe group. Garlic was traded via the spice and silk roads over millennia. The Mediterranean, Continental and Asiatic cultures have grown the most desirable aspects of the garlic genetics to suit the regions' climate and specific cuisine of those places. These provincial garlics (of hundreds of cultivars) have shaped the characteristics to help form the ten different global garlic groups we have today. Garlic has been grown and traded for over 5,000 years, with Egyptian tombs depicting garlic bulbs and scripts describing medicines and forms of cooking with garlic. From there garlic spread throughout the ancient world with varying climatic conditions. The widespread cultivation around the globe using cloves (clones of the bulb) over the millennia led wild garlic to diversify into different types - it also resulted in a decline in its ability to sexually reproduce. Epigenetic changes in morphology to adapt to climate conditions, softneck garlic types evolved in a warmer climate and were selected for non-bolting characteristics. These will revert to producing scapes in colder climates. Thus today all garlic is one species (allium sativum ) with ten main global cultivars also known as 'garlic groups'. A generation ago there were many large NZ commercial growers of garlic and the sector was in a healthy state like other horticultural and agricultural industries. In the early 1990s the import tariffs were removed from garlic. Our commercial growers could not compete with low-priced Chinese grown single-cultivar imports. Today 3/4 of the world's garlic (about 30 million tonnes) is grown in China, almost all grown in the province of Shangdong. The NZ garlic industry was crushed. Today the NZ garlic industry consists of only a couple of large-scale growers. They supply the most economicly viable softneck garlic groups which have plentiful cloves thus making it more economic for resowing. To realise the potential different garlic types to grow and thirive in your area we invite gardeners to explore both the tastes and the variability by offering the widest range of garlic groups available in New Zealand. Garlic Groups Garlic Groups (Varietal Groups) Garlic is not all the same. There is a range of garlic groups (or varietal groups) which have different optimal times to plant and harvest, their storage length varies as do their flavour attributes. The groups were named by American garlic guru Ron Engeland in 1991, and a decade later his groupings were confirmed by genetic research. The 10 types of garlic in the group are the two softnecks - silverskin and artichoke , the three semi-bolting hardnecks: creole , turban and asiatic garlic, and the final five strongly-bolting hardneck garlics: porcelain , rocambole , standard purple stripe , marbled purple stripe and glazed purple stripe . Try our garlic group picker to help decide which garlic to grow. There is alot of confusion over the different names growers put on garlic. Some names like 'Red Russian' is a marbled purple stripe, while 'Russian Red' is a rocambole and is sometimes even an elephant garlic (which is a leek!). It is more useful to identify garlic using the ten global garlic groups because outside the of the groups variability differences are only related to local growing conditions. Genetic studies by Volt et al in the 2000's identified that garlic is one species with ten main garlic varieties scientifically known as 'garlic horticultural groups' or garlic groups. She found that each group is distinct as related to the bulb arrangement, size, number of cloves, clove colour and tightness of cloves, and number, size and colour of bulbils irrespective of where they are grown. All other variances relate to the variability of local growing conditions and are not reliable. The diagram below (greatly simplied from the genetic research of Volk et al) shows the genetic diversity between the different groups as a result of genetic sampling. Note the relationships and how the softneck garlics of silverskin and artichoke are not closely related, nor are they closely related to the hardnecks of the purple stripe groups. Also of interest is the close relationship of silverskin and creoles . Other characteristics such as bulb wrapper colour and size is highly dependent on the location in which they are grown. Nutrients affect bulb size and weight , while scape development is affected by climate, with humidity affecting scape curl. However, growers have noticed that the shape and colour of the scape's umbel base is different within each group. Shape and colour of the spathe varies within each garlic group. The base of a turban and marbled purple stripe have a red blush. Rocamboles and porcelain spathes turn white at maturity and Asiatic scapes have an elongated dimple. So in summary, outside genetic tests only the leaf and clove appearance, bulbil characteristics and scape shape and colour can be used to identify the ten groups. The chart below shows some of the differences of each garlic varietal group. Planning Guide Chart Another factor to consider is that garlic that is moved to a new region will take time to acclimatise to the new location. Some of the traits known for a particular garlic group might take a year or two to occur in a new location and soils. It is also known that garlic grows better when they are moved from a colder climate zone to one which is warmer. Thus it is best to ensure garlic bulbs/cloves are obtained from a cooler climate rather than a warmer one, otherwise they are likely to miniaturise for the first couple of years until they acclimatise. It's like a Northlander coming down here to the deep south in autumn only wearing a t-shirt and taking time to get used to our colder climate. Do not attempt to grow garlic which as been imported. This is for three reasons; firstly: they have only been imported for culinary purposes and have NOT been checked for disease - no gardener wants to introduce a new disease to their soils. Secondly, they are likely to have come from the northern hemisphere (most likely China or USA) and will not aclimatise well. Thirdly, they are likely to have been sprayed with a shooting hormone to stop it from shooting during storage - it will not grow properly. NZ culinary garlic is normally smaller and has been put in a cool store which interferes with its growth often getting secondary shooting if planted. Large NZ commercial growers who grow for culinary use often use the chemical maleic hydrazide which is a sprouting inhibitor as it is not intended for planting. As a result we recommend planting cloves from bulbs which are recommended for gardeners than the plate.

Turban garlic type Turban Garlic Group Early Season| Short Storing | 6-12 cloves The Earlybird: Likes to arrive early at the garden party and prefers to be eaten first Turban garlic's name comes from the shape of the umbel which looks like squat Turban head covering. This garlic is often the first type to be harvested. It is a semi-bolting hardneck garlic which grows best in warmer climates with mild winters. It often has two pink triangles on it's false stem. This garlic group produces several cloves per bulb and has a strong purple stripe colour with a blotchy bulb wrapper. It grows best in a mild winter climate . As a semi-bolting hardneck type it generally sends up a flower scape with a relatively solid stem which is not braidable. This garlic might not produce scapes when grown in warmer climates if not vernalised . The garlic has a medium heat and a simple earthy taste and is the best garlic to be used raw in dressings or rubbed into salads. Characteristics Clove & Bulb Appearance The bulb is normally a flat globe shape, general ly has a purple stripe with blotched wrapper (skin) containing between 6-12 cloves. The bulbs have a single layer of cloves. Generally all cloves in a standard size bulb are of a size suitable for planting. The clove skin is a tan or cream colour. The cloves are very distinctive being typically squat , blunt tip a nd fat shaped like no other garlic. They also have short clove tips. They have the shortest storage life of any garlic at around 4-5 months after harvest. B ulbils Turbans are a hardneck garlic which generally sends out a scape (flower stalk) particularly in colder climates. They normally produce 30-100 medium sized cream to light pink coloured bulbils that have a wide tear drop shape. Leaves & Scapes Turbans have a wide floppy leaf . The leaf colour has is pale green. Scapes tend to form a downward 'U' shape, with the umbel having a medium green and long purple blush.

What is garlic rust and how to prevent and reduce it's effects GARLIC RUST The fungi that creates garlic rust is prolific around the country. It's the 'spring sorrow' of any garlic grower. It's a frustrating time to see one's healthy garlic leaves begin to get white round flecks then turn into rusty orange spores that spread. There are 7,000 species of rust, but garlic rust ( Puccinia porri ) is a real th reat to garlic crops. This pathogenic fungi is prevalent, and seems to have infested every corner of our country. This fungal disease generally spreads from spores in the wind (it can travel long distances), animals, people and their machinery. Puccinia allii also infects other garden vegetables too such as leeks, onions, spring onions and chives, so it's best not to plant these in the same soil each year. Rust spores are microscopic. Rust spores from the soil can reach the leaves from disturbance of the soil, rainfall splashing and other transfer methods. If possible, is best to water the soil via a dripline and not overhead. Rust can be transported from the leaves and bulb into the following years crop. Consider a pre-treatment of the clove before planting. The presence of rust is highly variable from year to year and between locations. Garlic rust thrives when soil nitrogen levels are high, close planting, high humidity (wet leaves for 4+ hours), poor drainage, stressed plants or when plants are in their bulbing stage, and in temperature ranging from 12-24 °C. It seems that growers at higher altitudes (>500m) or in very cold climates are less affected by garlic rust. We have found this to the the case for our plot located well above sea level (300m+) in a dry mountain environment which gets regular wind and air movement between the beds. The first sign of rust are small white spots which occur on the leaves. At this stage you can pick off the leaves and dispose of them (not in the compost). Do not pick too many leaves as each leaf contributes to 10% of bulb weight, and the last few are a protective cover for the bulb. The garlic rust stages progress as the white spots turn into a rusty orange appearance as the rust reproduces. The final garlic rust stage is destructive. This is where the leaf is covered in many orange or advanced black spots. Minor rust will not affect bulb size, moderate rust will, while severe rust will result in tiny or no bulbs. It is awfully disappointing to the grower as the stages progress. While there are inorganic treatments (systemic fungicides - normally two treatments in the early stages), there is no organic treatment to kill rust. Organic treatments using sulphur, sodium and potassium bi-carbonate based sprays on contact with the rust pustules will only sterilise the surface and reduce the spread to surround leaves and soil. However the internal pathogen in the leaf will remain. We tend to use potassium bi-carbonate as it's known to act quicker and is a more powerful agent to sterilise leaves. The organic method to reduce the impact and spread is by mixing a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or potassium bicarbonate per litre of water (plus a teaspoon of vegetable oil to make it stick and a drop of dish detergent to penetrate the leaf). When sprayed onto the leaf it makes the surface highly alkaline, anti-fungal and as a result slows the spread of rust growth for a week before reapplication is necessary. Do not spray any acidic formulas (like vinegar) as this will feed the rust. If it is raining alot it can be a very frustrating time to reapplying regularly this treatment. Another option is using hydrogen peroxide with water following the manufacturers instructions and spray on leaves every few weeks. Some growers elect to plant their cloves earlier to hopefully harvest earlier before garlic rust takes hold. Another consideration is to grow an early harvesting group such as turban or asiatic garlic types for the same reasons. This has mixed results with growers using this technique, others believe the strongly bolting garlics that are harvested later are a more robust in fighting rust . We have found planting early has not helped our crop, and the best resistant to date has been our later harvesting types. Micro-climates and seasonal weather variability certainly alters the presence of this persistent fungi on garlic leaves. Orange spores from leaves than reinfect soils can live there for 1-2 years before the soil biota will break it down. So for this reason it is best to have a three year rotation on garlic beds particularly if you experience rust. Black rust spores (acute stage) can live in the soils for 5-10 years, so it is best to remove the emergent black rust spores leaves early.

What are garlic scapes and what to do with them. GARLIC SCAPES The scapes are the garlic's flower stem and are mostly associated with hard neck garlics. Before harvesting, hardnec k garlic typically sends up a scape which normally curls then straightens before the garlic is harvested (softneck garlic can scape when stressed). Semi-bolting hardneck types ( creole , turban , asiatic ) in milder-winter areas do not necessarily produce a scape. The garlic plant puts energy into forming the scape so many growers remove them to direct the plants resources into developing the bulb. We have found there is a direct correlation of bulb size and scape removal of around 10-30%. On the flip side scapes left during curing result in the bulb drawing more nutrients during the drying process and it is likely they will store longer. Different types of garlic are more affected if the scape is not removed. Creole , porcelain , rocambole , purple stripe types respond well to scape removal, producing larger bulbs while turbans and asiatics less so. In saying that, some growers believe rocambole is minimally impacted by scape removal. As a general rule, garlic types which produce the tallest, thickest and largest scapes will grow larger bulbs if the scape is removed. Some growers have found that by leaving the scape on during drying that the plant's bulbs are harder as well as storing longer. An example of a Turban scape is pictured below. We remove the scape before they begin to curl, before they are longer than 20cm tall. Some growers including ourselves believe the earlier the better. Other growers remove the scape once they curl. There is no scientific evidence to support either approach as to when to remove the scape. If removing the scape, do so on a dry day so the break can heal cleanly without introducing infection and disease. When you see the firm stalk rise up from the middle of the leaves snap (not pull) it off the stalk by hand (if the scape is small) or with secateurs below the umbel before it widens. If the scape is pulled, it may result in the pseudostem becoming weak and will let water down into the bulb. The scape can be sauteéd, be part of a salad or stir fried as mentioned under the eating section .

Standard Purple Stripe garlic type Standard Purple Stripe Group Late Season| Med Storing | 8-12 cloves The Godfather: The easy peeling garlic from which all other garlic groups originate ... best of all this wild one's the sweetest Standard Purple Stripe garlic grows best in cold climates with cold winters. It is considered the most closely related to the original wild garlic, from which all other garlic originated, before being classified into the ten garlic groups now recognised. This garlic group produces several tan coloured cloves and typically has a purple hue on it s bulb wrapper. It grows best in a cool to cold winter climate . Standard Purple Stripe is a strongly-bolting hardneck type meaning it sends up a flower scape with a solid stem which is not braidable. This garlic is considered to have a great all round taste that is rich, spicy, strong - a fusion of different flavours. Characteristics Clove & Bulb Appearance The bulb is normally a round shape, generally it i s white with purple hues on its wra pper (skin) which contains between 8-12 cloves. The cloves 'hug' the pseudostem . The bulbs have a single layer of cloves. Generally all cloves of a standard-sized bulb are of a size suitable for planting. The cloves are smaller than many hardneck garlics and have a long cresce nt shape, angular edges and a long tail/tip. The clove skin is a dull tan colour with a purple blush. The cloves are easy peeling. The easy peeling nature of this garlic makes them ideal in the kitchen, while they have a medium storage life of around 7-9 months after harvest. Bulbils Standard purple stripe is a hardneck garlic which sends out a scape (flower stalk) particularly in colder climates. They typically produce a large amount (80-140) of small cream to pink coloured bulbils . L eaves & Scapes Standard Purple Stripe garlic has a wide, floppy tipped green-yellow leaf . Scapes normally form as a 3/4 loop with a wide green-yell ow umbel . The juvenile garlic leaf is unusual in that it splays sideways laying flat to the soil. Some growers label their early growing form as being a bit 'alien' like.

Garlic glossary GARLIC GLOSSARY While we have tried to keep our website and garlic growing guide simple to use, however our glossary might help with some explanations Annual - A plant which completes its lifecycle in one year Alliin - An amino acid present in fresh garlic which when disturbed allinase converts into allicin Allicin - The sulphur containing amino acid which once disturbed converts to cystine creating the garlic smell and taste Alliinase - A catalyst enzyme which causes the chemical change of allicin to allicin Artichoke - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of two softneck garlics Asiatic - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three semi-bolting garlics Basal Plate - The part of the plant which the roots grow out of which is actually the garlic's true stem containing root buds Beak - The top of the scape or flower stalk where is narrows down to end point. The beak can be long or short depending on the garlic group Biennial - A plant which requires two years to complete its lifecycle, garlic technically is a biennial but we harvest it as an annual Bolt - The arrival of the garlic's flower stalk which extends upwards from the leaves. Softneck garlic do not generally bolt, semi-bolting in cool/cold winters usually bolt, while strongly bolting garlic groups always bolt Bract - A modified leaf such as a garlic spathe Bud - The leafy shoot as it begins to grow. There are also root buds which are in the basal plate Bulb - The swollen and round shaped unground stem which generally contain a layer or several layers of cloves Bulb Formation - A period late in the season where the plant transfers it's energy from leaf to bulb growth and when the bulb begins to swell Bulb Wrapper - The thin papery outer layer of the bulb skin Bulbil - The small secondary bulbs normally located in the umbel or stem of the plant Bulblets - Small bulbs or clove like structures that grow beside the parent bulb Clone - In reference to garlic it is a genetic replica of the plant. Bulbs, cloves and bulbils are clones, while true seed is not Clove - One of several divisions inside a bulb that is made up of many individual lobes. Most gardeners plant the clove into the soil Clove Layers - In hardneck garlic typcially cloves are stacked radially around a bulb, while a softneck has 2-3 clove layers where cloves get smaller in the innermost layers Clove Skin - The hard yet thin outer layer of the clove (it is actually a separate leaf unconnected with the clove Cracking - Also known as 'popping', is when garlic cloves are separated from the bulb on the day or the following before planting the clove Cre ole - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three semi-bolting garlics Cultivar - A c ultivated variety. Technically the different garlic groups are cultivars not varieties Curing - The process of hanging and drying out garlic after harvesting for several weeks prepare the bulb for longterm storage Cysteine - The amino acid that is responsible for the pungency of garlic smell and taste. Normally it is stable and odourless, however once disturbed it gives off the garlic fragrance Day-Length Sensitivity - All garlic is sensitive to the changing day lengths and when moving garlic across latitudes can affect the growth before the plant recovers from climatisation Dieback - The process of the leaves yellowing to a brown shade normally at near the onset of a bulb maturing before harvest . Dieback can also be caused from disease, pests, nutrient deficiency or weather Double Cloves/Shoots - A clove which has more than one vegetative buds which when planted forms double or multiple shoots Pseudostem/False Stem - The plant's stalk. The true stem is actually the basal plate Climate Zones - Grouping of similar regional weather pattern. In NZ there are three main climate zones for garlic being mild, cool and cold winter areas. There are thousands of local micro-climates Clove Skin - The hard yet thin outer layer of the clove (it is actually a separate leaf unconnected with the clove Cold Climate/Winter - In reference to NZ garlic this is an area in the mid to lower North Island and South Island which is at higher elevations receives greater than a cool winter normally consisting of severe frosts for prolonged periods Cool Climate/Winter - In reference to NZ garlic this is an area in the mid to lower North Island and South Island which is at lower elevations receives neither a mild or cold winter F1 - The term for hybrids or cultivars of plants obtained by modern breeding methods False Stem - Also known as the psedostem of the stalk of the garlic plant as botanically the feature is actually elongated leaf bases wrapped around tightly Flowerhead - Also called the umbel or topset consisting of bulbils and flowers Garlic - One of 800 Allium species, but only one of seven that are cultivated. The word originates from Anglo-Saxon, 'Gar' meaning spear and 'leac' being leek Garlic Groups - A c ultivated variety. Technically the different garlic groups are cultivars not varieties Garlic Rust - A fungal disease which forms round white then orange rusty spots on a plant. Glazed Purple Stripe - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three strongly-bolting garlics Grade - The size category of the bulb. Grading is normally undertaken commercially, however gardeners should grade to pick the largest cloves from largest bulbs planting the following year Green Garlic - Freshly harvested garlic that has not been dryed/cured Hardneck - Also known as a red garlic or topset, is a garlic that produces a scape and umbel Leaf Blade - The thin flat part of the leaf Leaf Sheath - The base of the leaf which wraps around the stalk or false stem Leaf Tip - The end of each leaf Marbled Purple Stripe - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three strongly-bolting garlics Maturity - The period to which the plant has finished growing and the bulb is ready for harvesting being at full size without deterioration Mild Climate/Winter - In reference to NZ garlic this is an area in the northern part of the North Island which receives more warmer winters Neck - The top of the bulb and the base of the stalk Neck Bulbils - Bulbils which form along the stalk or garlic's false stem sometimes found in artichoke garlic types Nitrogen - Is a naturally occurring chemical element, and is one of the most important nutrients for a garlic's plant leaf growth. Natural sources of nitrogen for your garlic bed include blood and bone, coffee grounds, nitrogen fixing cover crops (peas, beans or other legumes), fish emulsion, grass clippings, leaves, and animal manure Non-bolting - One of the two soft neck garlic groups (silverskin and artichoke ) that generally does not send up a scape Ophio Garlic - A Latin term meaning 'serpent', an old term used for the eight semi or strongly bolting garlic that typically sends up a scape flower stalk Psedostem - The false stem of the stalk of the garlic plant as botanically the feature is actually elongated leaf bases wrapped around tightly Popping - Also known as 'cracking', is when garlic cloves are separated from the bulb on the day or the following before planting the clove Potassium - Is a naturally occurring chemical element, and is one of the most important nutrients for a garlic's bulb growth. Natural sources of potassium are wood ash, banana peels and compost made from food scraps and seaweed Porcelain - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three strongly-bolting garlics Quarantine - A bed which is used for the planting of new cloves which is isolated from other garlic where bulbs have potential to import disease or pest risk. Quarantine normally lasts 1-2 years Rocambole - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three strongly-bolting garlics Roots - The organs of the plant which are underground and form out of basal plate Rotation - Refers to crop rotation for annual crops to reduce the risk of disease and replenish nutrients. Garlic should be not planted in the same bed location ideally for at least three years Rounds - The term for when a clove produces a single bulb with no individual cloves. This normally occurs for most first generation bulbils, early harvested bulbs or poorly performing bulbs Rust - Garlic Rust (Puccina porri ) is a persistent pathogenic fungi affecting plants during the bulbing period Sativum - A Latin term meaning 'cultivated', an old term often referring to softneck garlics Seed - Technically the seed of garlic is 'true seed' formed in the flowerhead. All other plantable stock (bulbs, cloves and bulbils) are actually clones and not seed. It is common-place to hear bulbs being called seed garlic or garlic seed Scape - Also known as a flower stalk it rises out of the bulb on hardneck garlics to produce the flowerhead. Scapes can be picked early to increase bulb size and can be used for culinary dishes Semi-bolting - One of the three hardneck garlic groups (turban , creole and asiatic ) that generally send up a scape unless in a warmer winter zone Silverskin - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of two softneck garlics Softneck - Also known as 'white garlic' i s a garlic that does not produces a scape and umbel (silverskin and artichoke ) and are easier to plait for storing Spathe - The covering and enclosing the flower cluster and bulbils which extends to the beak Species - Garlic is just one species (sativum of the allium genus). The ten garlic groups are cultivars of the species Split Bulb/Skin - When a bulb has been harvested too late and the cloves are pushing away from the centre of the bulb breaking open the bulb wrapper Strain - The lowest division of plant classification, in reference to garlic is is the small variations of cultivars/garlic groups that can be used to label a particular garlic. Often commercial growers will brand a garlic which has certain characteristics as a result of the areas mirco-climate, soils or local factors which influence a garlic group. The creole group or cultivar has a popular strain called Ajo Roja Standard Pur ple Stripe - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three strongly-bolting garlics Strongly-bolting - One of the five hardneck garlic groups (porcelain, rocambole and the three purple stripe groups) that sends up a scape Topset - Also known as a hardneck, is a garlic that produces a scape and umbel True Seed - Technically the tiny black seed formed in the flowerhead. All other plantable stock (bulbs, cloves and bulbils) are actually clones and not seed. It is common-place to hear bulbs being called seed garlic or garlic seed True Stem - The flat base of the bulb being the basal plate, not above the bulb which are leaves or the false stem Turban - One of the ten global garlic groups, and one of three semi-bolting garlics Umbel -The flowerhead at the top of the scape which includes the bulbils, flowers, spathe and beak Vegetative Reproduction - Any plant grown asexually and reproduced vegetatively such as garlic bulbs, cloves and bulbils. Garlic 'true seed' comes from the flowerhead from sexual reproduction Vernalisation - Either natural or artificial cooling for several weeks in order to initiate garlic's bulb development Wild Garlic - Naturally uncultivated garlic