Common Garlic Diseases, Irregular Growth and Pests COMMON ISSUES While garlic is a pretty hardy plant, i t can be affected by a range of pest species (nearly 100) and the first warning signs once planted is irregular 'roguing' growth. A garlic grower should be regularly inspecting the garlic growth to find the first signs of unusual growth earl y. The three main categories of garlic problems are diseases , unusual growth or and pests . Warning Signs Garlic is one of the most susceptible annuals to disease for three main reasons. Firstly the cloves and bulbils are clones of the plant so unlike seed it can carry forward and accumulates disease to future generations. Secondly bulbs grow in the damp soil and for a long time where they are exposed and vulnerable to a whole range of soil borne diseases. Thirdly there are few infield treatments to cure many garlic diseases. For bacterial and viral issues there is almost no treatment options, while fungal issues only has limited options. The best method is crop rotation, raising the soil, planting good stock and removing rogue shoots early. The first sign is the plant having smaller, yellowing or shriveled leaves compared to others in the bed. It is worth inspecting plants regularly to catch these rogue sick plants as they will never grow into healthy ones. Also, be careful to remove them including the surrounding soil before disposing. To leave sick plants in the soil increases the disease and affects soil health and nearby garlic. Most fungal issues can be reduced by practicing crop rotation (recommended 3+ years), choosing good planting stock, having good watering practices and planting a variety of garlic groups known as polyculture. Once shooting begins look out for the warning signs of disease or other non-uniform growth. While it is handy to have early season garlic like turbans and asiatics , the mid to late harvesting garlics are generally are less prone to seasonal pest and diseases as the season warms up. Garlic produces roots first, before sending out shoots. In mild-winter climates where cloves are planted shal l ower, shoots are likely to appear 1-2 weeks after planting. In such climates where the daytime temperature is above 12°C then leaf growth will continue through winter. In colder climates it can take up to six weeks for leaves to appear. In colder climates only 3-6 leaves will initially grow before the plant goes into dormancy. Once spring arrives and temperatures exceed 14°C, then leaf growth resumes. Note that standard purple stripe and sometimes the porcelain garlic group has an 'alien' early growth form where they lie flat with the ground. Porcelain is also known to be the most susceptible to having viruses. Diseases Garlic Rust (Puccina porri) There are 7,000 species of rust, but garlic rust ( Puccinia porri ) is a real th reat to garlic crops. This pathogenic fungi is prevalent, and seems to have infested every corner of our country. This fungal disease generally spreads from spores in the wind (it can travel long distances), animals, people and their machinery. Puccinia allii also infects other garden vegetables too such as leeks, onions, spring onions and chives, so it's best not to plant these in the same soil each year. More detailed information on garlic rust and how to prevent or treat it can be found on our garlic rust page. Garlic Rust Diseases Black Mould This generally charcoal coloured covering normally over the stalk and sometimes in some of the bulb wrappers (skin) with dark blotches. It is normally a cosmetic injury caused by pathogens Embellisia allii, and Aspergillus niger . These diseases sit in the soil on dead plant material and can infect the plant due to a bulb injury, or gain entry through the basal plate . It often occurs in warm dry climates such as Central Otago. The infection seems to occur more commonly on white wrapper garlic groups than red and from our experience the softneck garlics in particular the artichoke garlic group seems to get the worst infestations. Black mould typically visibly appears during the curing process if the bulbs have not dried properly. It occurs when the humidity levels are too high, curing spacing is tight and there is not sufficient ventilation flow. Fortunately, black mould can be prevented if bulbs can dry in well ventilated dry environments and can be reduced by removing some bulb wrappers before storing. Penicilium Moulds Penicillium corymbiferum is carried in the garlic bulb. The mould makes the clove soft and it will shrivel and reveal white to green or blue spores on the clove. The first signs if a clove with it is planted is the leaf yellowing and it looking different than other garlic plants. Moulds can occur more frequently when cloves are damaged or poorly stored. These moulds normally happen when cloves have been left too late for planting and their roots grow in cool and moist air conditions. Pull out the infected plant including the soil around the clove and you will notice the spores. While healthy bulbs can carry spores, only use clean planting stock to prevent this growth using a pre-treatment. Basal Rot (Fusarium root rot) Basal rot first appears in the field with young shoot yellowing, particularly the leaf tips. The fungus can continue to spread post-harvest with the thin basal plate rotting with a white mold appearing. The rot is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum and thrives in warm and wet conditions. Remove and dispose of these plants at the first sign of disease. To reduce the chances in getting basal rot use disease-free bulbs, ensure crop rotation, proper spacing between plants, avoid root disturbance, overwatering, and overfertilising. Also cure bulbs as quickly and thoroughly as possible before storing. Neck Rot Neck rot also known as bacterial centre rot, is caused by several types of botrytis and also pantoea complex bacteria. It makes the pseudostem and cloves have a water-soaked coffee colour appearance. The infection can move into the bulb during storage and has no simple cure. To reduce the chances of neck rot consider pre-treatment before planting using a bleach soak for a few minutes. Ensure good air circulation for the crop and during storing. Also avoid bulb injury, excess soil nitrogen, too much watering or mulch around the plant. Soft Pink Rot Neck rot is a type of bacterial rot which is often not found until the garlic is cured and the garlic is cut for storage. Sometimes it can be spotted in the field when the stalk has a brown rot the centres of some of the leaves centres at the vein are water soaked, swollen and yellow-brown in appearance. It is caused by the a rod shaped bacterium called Erwina persicina and causes a pink appearance in the the stalk which sometimes travels down into the clove where rot can form. There is no solution to rid the rot but bactericides that contain copper can slow the spread of this disease. Fusarum Dry Rot Dry rot also known as 'storage rot' is a is a wet seaon or poor storage rot caused by Fusarium proliferatum fungi. All Fusarium diseases are latent and all garlic has some level of infection with most unseen while growing or on the outside of the bulb. The first signs of the disease show up on the basal plate and roots and spread to form small orange scabby lesions on the outside of the clove or water soaked brown lesions if the fungi is advanced with shrunken clove tissue. Avoid planting cloves with this fungi are their is no cure, so check while cracking garlic for soft tissue, and cloves with unusually pale, brown spots and loose skins. The pathogen overwinters in the soil and can be carried on the bulb. The best way to avoid the occurrence is to plant healthy cloves from quality bulbs, pre-treatment, crop rotation and avoid bulb injury during harvest and handling. White Rot White rot (Stromatinia cepivorum or Schlerotium cepivorum ) is a devastating fungal disease for the garlic grower. It can spell the end of garlic growing in a bed. The disease favours cool and moist soil conditions. Infection in soil temperature ranges from 10-23°C, with 15-18°C optimal for the fungus. Soils temperatures greater than 25°C have a low risk of developing this rot. Early signs are dark brown pigmentation which stain plant's neck or inner bulb skins or slimy bulb skin which soil sticks to the mycelium (white fungal threads). After a few seasons the disease in plants gets worse. The fungus creates black reproductive sclerotia which form small black poppy seed-like features in the white threads at the reproductive stage. At this stage clusters of plants dying back early and are easily pulled out due to their decayed roots and basal plate. Also the white rot's strong digestive acids tend to dissolve the bulb wrappers which can lead to slimy film. White rot affects other allium specie s, and there is no effective organic treatment. The only option is to remove the soil or never grow alliums in the diseased soil. The disease can be still viable in the soil for 20+ years and can lay dormant for 50+ years before a allium species is planted. If the infected soil remains, the disease is likely to spread via animals and wind movement. Ensure that tools and gloves are sterilized as to not affect other areas. Alternatively it is possible to reduce the infective sclerotia in the soils by digging in dried garlic powder with no alliums growing (two teaspoons per square metre). This should cause germination of the white rot but without living matter, however needs to be repeated in spring and summer for three years. Plant clean stock. Use preventative pre-treatment measures if obtaining garlic from an unknown source such as briefly soaking the garlic clove at no more than 49°C to reduce the fungal spores. Also practice crop rotation. Pectobacterium carotovorum There is no common name for this plant bacteria. The pathogen can be present in many vegetables including garlic. In garlic, the disease affects clove and scape development. This results in single clove bulbs or fewer mis-shaped cloves, enlarged bulbils or neck bulbils on types that do not normally have them. The stalks can be also mis-shapen or have multiple stalks, can be pinkish in colour and is soft and spongy at the base. The leaves of the plant often have strong yellow edges all the way down leaves . The disease can arrive with new seed stock and there is no cure. The bacteria can be more common with overly wet soils. It is best to remove the plants from stock and avoid planting any cloves with symptoms. Garlic Mosaic Garlic Mosaic is caused by a range of viruses that is present in garlic, it's commonly caused by those of the potyvirus group. It causes angular striping and discolouration (yellow to light green) o f garlic leaves particularly in younger plants creating a mosaic pattern amongst the healthier darker green plant tissue. If severe, plants are often stunted and bulb size is reduced. The disease is transmitted from garlic stock (clonally propagated) and aphids. Most plants only show mild symptoms with only one type of virus, and are severely affected by several types. To reduce reoccurrence, cull affected plants to reduce the chances of the disease in next years crop. Other Diseases There are many other less common diseases which cause unusual growth habits of garlic plants. When the plants are shooting keep an eye on any rouge growth habits. Compare the shoots and early leaf growth to other nearby plants. If they are stunted, have unusual colour (ie. pink/red could be rhizoctonia or stemphylium) or discoloured or have wobbly growth then it is best to remove and disposed of these plants. If these plants are left to grow, the disease might spread to other plants and extend further into the soil affecting the health of plants in future years. Unusual Growth Unusual Growth S ide Sprouting (Witches Broom) Side sprouting also known as secondary shooting. It occurs when the bulb is still growing but the clove skins begin to sprout into leaves coming out of the pseudostem or false stem and into the top of the plant. Often this condition is called 'witches broom' and is caused by fluctuating weather extremes of hot and cold (typically cold), higher than usual rainfall or planting too early for the clove. It can be formed by planting store bought garlic that has been kept in cold storage, also vernalising for more than two months can have the same result. If planting in a cold winter area try planting a little later to avoid changeable weather at the plants vulnerable growing stage. This condition also occurs during bulb development and clove formation with excess nitrogen in the soil contributing to bulbs and cloves being bigger than usual. After harvesting such bulbs do not store them rather try to consume them within a month or two. Waxy Breakdown Waxy breakdown is a condition that normally develops after harvest (4-6 weeks after). It is not discovered until the bulb wrapper is removed revealing cloves with a soft waxy translucent appearance. The cloves initially appear yellow and in time transform into a orange colour and are normally become sticky. This physiological condition occurs as a result of very hot conditions prior to harvest, either too much sunlight during curing (avoid sunlight when curing), mild not hold curing conditions or poor ventilation during storage. Avoid planting cloves with waxy breakdown. Outside Cloves This where one or a few cloves begin to appear on the outside of the bulb wrapper which is often seen in the artichoke garlic group. These external cloves occur as a result of an early spring hot snap. The unusually hot weather will initiate clove development early in the lower leaves. When these leaves eventually die off and the outer cloves are exposed outside the main bulb wrapper. Providing they are not part of the fertile leaves (the last leaves to appear) these cloves will be viable for planting the following year. Double/Triple Shoots This condition is where sprouting seems to send out several shoots from the ground not just from one clove. This is as a result of not identifying joined cloves during cracking them out of the bulb pre-planting. When dividing them what appeared to be one clove was in fact several cloves. It is a good idea while cracking the bulb at the pre-planting stage to check the basal plate of extra large cloves to see whether they are doubles. This condition is easy to resolve if caught early by running your fingers into the soil between the shoots and pulling one away from the other gently to separate the roots. It should be possible to replant the extra shoot if caught early (less than 10cm high), and if there is room in the garden. The softneck types (silverskin and artichoke ) of garlic which have multiple layers of cloves that are very tightly bundled can make separating the cloves challenging. Sometimes, only a hairline fracture is barely visible between cloves. Generally, the single layer hardneck types are more uniform and easier to spot joined cloves. Sometimes this condition is outside our control. Bulbs divide into cloves well before bulbing. Clove division is actually is a result of tiny clove buds that swell into large cloves that make up the bulb. This can be impossible for any gardener to spot. Yellowing Leaves Leaf colour can also indicate a deficiency in the soil. This often occurs a month after sprouting when the clove no longer supplies nutrients for growth. If the leaf tip yellows around this time, it is likely frost damage, minor nutrient deficiency or nutrient imbalance. A little yellowing is normal unless you have very fertile soils where the leaves are a standard green. If the yellowing continues and advances into the season (and it's not a mould or rot) then there is a likelyhood it is either a serious disease, lack of water or a soil nutrient deficiency. If it's a disease, remove and dispose of the sick plant or plants. Note that leaf yellowing is not to be confused with maturity where leaves turn yellow from the leaf tip down beginning with the leaves at the bottom of the plant. Nutrient imbalances in garlic can generally be determined by the effect on their leaves . A lack of: Nitrogen - yellow leaf tips affecting oldest leaves first, each new leaf smaller, folded, stunted leading to purple veins at base of leaf Phosphorus - same as nitrogen except young leaves do not fold Potassium - deep yellowing of older leaf tips then leads to complete leaf yellowing Magnesium - mottling (chlorosis) affecting base first with lower leaves yellow Calcium - spotting on all leaves particularly the upper third which increase in size Rounds The occurrence of the bulb not dividing into cloves (called rounds) is difficult to determine pre-harvesting. This condition is a result of the cloves planted being too small, being planted too late in the season and not wintering over or if the weather conditions have been either too dry or wet. They can be still eaten (some imported garlics are rounds) or replanted the following year. It is typical to get rounds in the first year of growing bulbils before replanting over the next 1-2 years to get bulbs with cloves. Pests Pests Nematodes Nematodes or roundworms are microscopic to tiny creatures which there is thought to be over a million types. They have successfully adapted to nearly every ecosystem including the 35 species in humans and thousands of types in soils. Only a couple of types affect garlic; Pratylinchus species attack th e garlics roots while the Ditylynchus species which are 1.5mm long and attack the stems and bulbs. The damage to garlic is known as bulb and stem nematode or bloat nematode. They can be identified on a clove as tiny pimple-like spots or the brownish desiccated discoloration just above the basal plate where they have entered the plant. Once way to kill them from gloves is to soak the cloves in hot water (43 °C) for ten minutes before planting. For the soil, reduce populations by growing mustard seed family such as brassica plants then tilling the green plants into the soil as brassica are toxic to nematodes. It will take 3-4 years for the mustard seed family crops to release the compound that reduces nematode populations Otherwise avoid growing allium species in the same soil. Black Aphids Aphids, particularly black aphids can quickly infect garlic plants. These tiny oval insects which are 2-3mm long can be undetected at first before rapidly hatching to cover plants. They expand rapidly because female aphids give birth to other females, who are already pregnant when born. If there is only a few then you can pick them off. However it is difficult to get every one so they are best treated with neem oil which an organic and biodegradable treatment. A soil using a mustard family crop as mulch a month before planting will reduced the chances to getting aphids. Bulb Mite Bulb mites (typically Rhizoglyphus echinopus) is a tiny (0.5-1mm) type of mite. The mite burrows into the garlic basal plate and then migrate into the stem and cloves if there is sufficient moisture. They leave a hollowed out honeycombed soft void of rot to bulbs. In some cases the mites leave very small brown spots on the garlic cloves visible once the bulb wrapper and clove skins are removed. They may look like small fungal lesions starting, but by looking closely bulb mites might be spotted living under the skin of the clove. The spots create scars left behind from the bulb mite feeding. Pre-treat garlic before planting, use free draining soil in raised beds or mounded soil. Ensure that crops are rotated. Mites do not survive dry conditions and rapidly changing humidity. Bulb mites are more common in high ambient relative humidity around harvest time. Thus the most effective way to control bulb mite infestations is to cure the crop quickly after harvest (1-2 days via fans) rather than passive drying over a few weeks. Allow plenty of airflow around curing bulbs. Other Pests Other pests which might affect your NZ garlic include rats (pre-shooting), rabbits, slugs and thrips. It is possible to protect against some of these larger pest by installing fine netting and using neem soil or pyrethrum for smaller pests. It is best to quarantine new garlic for your garden into a separate bed if possible. This reduces the possible spread of any disease or pest from the source garlic in the first year or two.

What is gourmet garlic? WHAT IS GOURMET GARLIC? At Gourmet Garlic we celebrate the diversity of the different garlic groups. Each of the ten global garlic groups is unique - much like the varieties of other fruit and vegetables. The garlic's variety in preferred climates, the time to harvest and storage periods appeal to us. Some are easier to peel, and all have different flavour profiles and different nutritional properties. We love offering the full gourmet suite of garlic groups for our customers to try. Our garlic is home-grown, and as such we treat it like part of the family. Corny but true! We hand rear them, watching over each one in the colder months, giving them support and a feed at the right time to nurture them into full-sized mature bulbs. It's not easy to grow all global garlic groups in one location. Some garlic group bulbs prefer mild winters others like cool or cold winters. We try our best to grow the best garlic despite the various needs of each type of garlic. Commercially it would be more economic to grow softneck garlic in a warmer climate. This is because areas with milder winters get more cloves per bulb and softnecks produce 10+ plantible cloves per bulb. We stock the full range, where some garlics like porcelain produce on average four cloves per bulb so we have to keep 25% of our stock for replanting. So there are some extra cost of planting in a colder environment with less economic garlic types. It's gourmet because we: Offer all global garlic groups Only plant exceptional stock (large, firm & healthy) Provide generous spacing for healthy stock Grow bulbs naturally using organic principals (no artificial inputs) Harvest by hand to minimise damage and to quality check each bulb Cure plants whole (not cut) allowing the leaf energise bulbs Grade manually not by machine for more quality control Package using compostable boxes or bags including padding Track postage of all products safely to your home garden Only the best bulbs leave our home to start a new life with you

Glazed Purple Stripe garlic type Glazed Purple Stripe Group Late Seas on| Medium Storing | 6 -12 cloves The Dazzler: Has an easy-peeling glossy sheen of silver and gold ... it's a real head-turner Glazed Purple Stripe garlic grows best in cold climates with cold winters. It is known for its cloves that appear to have a sheen of purple, bronze, silver and a hint of gold colours on a silvery coloured bulb wrapper. It grows best in a cool to cold winter climate . The garlic is a strongly-bolting hardneck type meaning it sends up a flower scape with a solid stem which is not braidable. This garlic is considered to be great for baking as its flavour holds up after cooking, has a medium heat and an earthy flavour. Characteristics Clove & Bulb Appearance The bulb shape is normally round and squat. This type generally has a cream colour with a purple dapp le or silvery wrapper (skin) containing between 6-12 cloves. The bulbs have a single layer of cloves. Generally all cloves of a standard size bulb are of a size suitable for planting. The elongated cloves are normally a good size with a wedge like appearance. The clove skin has a sheen of purple, bronze, silver and a hint of gold colour, and are easy-peeling. This easy-peeling chacteristic makes the m ideal in the kitc hen and have a earthy garlic flavour . They have a medium storage life of around 6-7 months after harvest. Bulbils T his hardneck garlic sends out a scape (flower stalk) particularly in colder climates. They typically produce a large amount (100-150) of small cream to pink coloured bulbils . L eaves & Scapes Glazed purple stripe garlic have wide upright green leaves . Scapes normally form a 3/4 to a full loop with a narrow green umbel with a hint of purple blush.

Gourmet Garlic Test Page TEST This is a test page, generally not seen by users. Please return to the main menu. tEST The g

Garlic Growing Guide - Drying garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Drying Garlic needs to be cured before storing. The drying process begins in the ground as the plant ceases growing, and the leaves begin to wither. The next stage involves removing the bulb from the soil to finish off this curing process. Why Cure? Why Cure Garlic? Green garlic is garlic that has been harvested and has not dried. It is prone to rotting in storage if it has not been dried properly. The drying process will result in the bulb lo sing up to 30% of its weight due to moisture loss . It also results in the cloves' skin drying out which protects the inside from further dehydration. The curing process helps garlic begin its natural dormancy and bring out the rich, intense garlic flavours. This usually occurs after three weeks of curing. Unless it is being eaten straight away, drying garlic is an important and necessary step before its storage. How to Cure How to Cure Optimal Conditions Garlic once removed from the soil should be cured in a dry and low humidity environment , shaded, out of rain and with some air flow. It is best to remove any large clumps of dirt on the roots or bulb if it was harvested during damp conditions. It is not necessary to remove any bulb wrappers (skin), scapes or roots at this stage. Commercial growers use fans to circulate air but a well ventilated shed will also work. Ideally daytime temperatures should be >20 °C at <55% humidity, with 1m/sec air speed. However in domestic drying conditions try to keep the garlic out of the sun, in a warm, dry place with good air flow. Hanging Garlic is best hung as an entire plant for optimal drying. They are commonly bundled in groups of up to ten plants and strung up with string to dry. It is not good practice to remove any leaf material or roots, despite this being done by larger commercial growers to save drying space. This can open up the plant to infection such as molds into the bulb or basal plate and does not allow the bulb to draw the final nutrients from the leaves. Some growers place garlic in a single layer on a screen, while some home growers use saw horses, ladders, clothing racks or old bed frames for small quantities. We hang ours from rods that holds the bulb upside down to reduce mold that sometimes grows on bundles of bulbs that touch each other. We feel the bulb is in a heathier stage for storing if hung bulb up. Length of Time The length of time it takes garlic to dry depends on a range of factors such as temperature, relative humidity, air circulation, if a scape is present, bulb size and number of clove layers. A basic guide is to allow a month, but it can vary from 4-10 weeks. The longer you leave them to cure, (6-10 weeks) the longer they will store and the bulb wrappers should be dry and wrinkly . Always keep an eye on how they are d r ying and watch for infection of molds or pests.

Garlic Growing Guide - Maintaining garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Maintaining Garlic is generally a low maintenance crop. It does not need a lot of effort, but it be can be affected by pests and disease than many other vegetables. Thus, garlic does need some attention while growing and these are some key aspects to consider. Additives Fertilising In addition to preparing the soil before planting it is good to have a fertiliser regime while the plants are growing which consists of at least two phases. Nitro gen is important for leaf growth and is needed early on in leaf growth. Phosphorous is important for root development in the later phase of the plants' life. The first stage is for leaf growth where nitrogen is important. In mild winter climates garlic will grow up to 12 + leaves, while in colder climates less than 12 leaves are produced. Regular monthly fertiliser applications up until the maximum leaf number is obtained will support good leaf health. We apply a general organic fertiliser or blood and bone during this time. It is important to keep a regular fertiliser regime (monthly) during except over winter if the day temperatures are below 12 ° C. In winter rainfall leaches out the nutrients, while in spring the soils are beginning to warm - cold soils do not aid in nutrient uptake. So it is best to maintain a good regular balance of fertiliser just after planting and when the soils warm up in spring. The second stage is bulbing which occurs once the plant nearly reaches the max imum number of leaves before maturing. This is called the transition stage for the plant. At this point, potassium is important for root development as the plant is putting its energy into bulb growth. We apply a general organic potash during this time. Note that each garlic type has a different growing habit. Some are slow to shoot while some take off, some have floppy leaves while others have a very upright appearance. The picture below shows some of the different types all planted at the same time. Mulching Once garlic cloves are in the ground it i s worth considering whether to use mulch on top of the soil, particularly to suppress weeds . While we at Gourmet Garlic do not top cover (we use mulch on farrow beds though) others use mulch in different locations around the country . Often mild to cool winter areas, particularly near the coastal areas need not apply mulch unless the garlic is affected by salt spray or other local conditions. It is best not to apply mulch in wet climate areas. Mulch moderates the soil temperature, and reduces the effect of extremes like snow. In saying that garlic originates in cold extremes and our young garlic shoots in the deep south have no problem surviving with a foot of snow covering them in winter. Few places in the country experience permafrost for weeks on end, unlike some in Siberia, Canada and other northern hemisphere higher latitudes. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds and adds nutrients to the soil. It also has its disadvantages in that it can also keep the soil temperature damp and cool during spring, slowing growth and it can foster disease, mo u lds, pests. It is better to apply mulch after winter for adding nitrogen and reducing weeds. In spring it can suppress the weeds and conditions are warmer reducing the chances of mulch being a cold waterlogged mat. Choose the mulch that holds the least amount of water, overseas sugar cane mulch fits this criteria. There is a bit of an art to using mulch. Mulch should not be too heavy or dense, it should be light and fluffy for shoots to pop through - generally 2-10cm of depth is a good guide. There are a variety of mulch options such as hay, straw, grass clippings and a mix of chopped up leaves. Choose a m ulch source wit h few weed seeds. We do not recommend using black plastic weedmat. The soil can rise above 50 degrees a few centremetres down into the soil stressing the roots and culturing disease. It is better to use this material it for the side linings of beds. If you live in a windy area and are using light mulch such as hay or dried leaves, consider wetting it to reduce its movement around the garden. Mulch is normally removed in spring and if it gets waterlogged it may prevent garlic shoots from rising to the surface. Some growers apply mulch once the shoots are several centimetres high. Watering Garlic should never be allowed to dry out, but should never be saturated ... it should be moist not wet . Roots are shallow (although can descend 60cm) but can still need deep watering. Watering is relatively intuitive often a finger test of dampness is all that is needed. If in doubt purchase a cheap moisture plunger or dig down beside the plant to spade depth and test soil conditions. If the leaf edge is beginning to yellow this is one possible first sign that the plant is deficient in moisture. The most ideal time to water is morning during sunny and warm conditions allowing the plant to dry out and reducing the risk of disease. It is not best practice to water (via a overhead method) in the evening or night as this will result in prolonged leaf wetness which can encourage disease and rust spores. Some places in winter and early spring, like here in the deep south need no or very little additional water in winter or early spring. Of course, those with sandy soils, warmer winters or dry and windy places will need a watering regime to achieve ideal soil moisture conditions even in winter. In these places (particularly without mulch) it might be necessary to water every day or every second day. Consider using a drip system. Sprinklers can wet leaves which encourages garlic rust and other diseases to take hold. It is also important to know when to stop watering. Yes, for garlic the 2-4 weeks before harvesting it is necessary to stop . At this point bulbs are drying out and are vulnerable to excess moisture. Rainfall or continued watering up to harvest time can cause storage rot plus the bulb wrapper can split and be stained. Note that once bulbing begins (8-10 weeks before harvest), the plants immune system becomes inactive and they are more prone to basal or root rot diseases. Weeds Weeding Even with using mulch , persistent weeds can still break through the soil seeking any available light. Wild garlic evolved in the cold mountains of Central Asia. They had little competition in their arid homeland and as a result grew only a few slender leaves which are unable to be replaced. As a result, garlic does not tolerate completion from weeds. It is necessary to keep on top of weeds as soon as they rise out of the soil. Weeds not only shade the garlic leaves but also drain nutrients from the soil and can cause premature bulbing. It is good practice to regularly weed and give garlic the best chance to grow large heathy bulbs. Scapes Scape Removal T he scape is a flower stem and is mostly associated with hardneck garlic types. Before harvesting, hardnec k garlic typically sends up a scape which normally curls then straightens before the garlic is harvested (softneck garlic can scape when stressed). Semi-bolting hardneck types (creole , turban , asiatic ) in milder-winter areas do not necessarily produce a scape. The garlic plant puts energy into forming the scape so many growers remove them to direct the plants resources into developing the bulb. We have found there is a direct correlation of bulb size and scape removal of around 10-30%. We remove the scape before they begin to curl, before they are longer than 20cm tall. If removing the scape, do so on a dry day so the break can heal cleanly without introducing infection and disease. When you see the firm stalk rise up from the middle of the leaves snap (not pull) it off the stalk by hand (if the scape is small) or with secateurs below the umbel before it widens. If the scape is pulled, it may result in the pseudostem becoming weak and will let water down into the bulb. More information is available on our garlic scape page. WarningSigns Warning Signs While garlic is a pretty hardy plant, i t can be affected by range of pest species (nearly 100) and the first warning signs once planted are irregular 'roguing' growth. A garlic grower should be regularly inspecting the garlic growth to find the first signs of irregular growth early. Garlic is one of the most susceptible annuals to disease for three main reasons. Firstly the cloves and bulbils are clones of the plant so unlike seed it can carry forward and accumulates disease to future generations. Secondly bulbs grow in the damp soil and for a long time where they are exposed and vulnerable to a whole range of soil borne diseases. Thirdly there are few infield treatments to cure many garlic diseases. For bacterial and viral issues there is almost no treatment options, while fungal issues only has limited options. The best method is crop rotation, raising the soil, planting good stock and removing rogue shoots early. The first sign is the plant having smaller, yellowing or shriveled leaves compared to others in the bed. It is worth inspecting plants regularly to catch these rogue sick plants as they will never grow into healthy ones. Also, be careful to remove them including the surrounding soil before disposing. To leave sick plants in the soil increases the disease and affects soil health and nearby garlic. Most fungal issues can be reduced by practicing crop rotation (recommended 3+ years), choosing good planting stock, having good watering practices and planting a variety of garlic groups known as polyculture. Once shooting begins look out for the warning signs of disease or other non-uniform growth. While it is handy to have early season garlic like turbans and asiatics , the mid to late harvesting garlics are generally are less prone to seasonal pest and diseases as the season warms up. Garlic produces roots first, before sending out shoots. In mild-winter climates where cloves are planted shal l ower, shoots are likely to appear 1-2 weeks after planting. In such climates where the daytime temperature is above 12°C then leaf growth will continue through winter. In colder climates it can take up to six weeks for leaves to appear. In colder climates only 3-6 leaves will initially grow before the plant goes into dormancy. Once spring arrives and temperatures exceed 14°C, then leaf growth resumes. Note that standard purple stripe and sometimes the porcelain garlic group has an 'alien' early growth form where they lie flat with the ground. Porcelain is also known to be the most susceptible to having viruses. The three main categories of garlic problems, having diseases , unusual growth or affected by pests . Our page on common garlic problems discusses the main garlic diseases encountered by growers in NZ, the irregular growth that an occur and common pests.

Ten tips to follow to get the best chance of healthy big garlic bulbs TOP 10 TIPS Disappointed each season with small, weak and poorly performing garlic bulbs? These are our top 10 tips for the best chances of harvesting the largest, healthiest and the best looking garlic bulbs. 1) Choose the right garlic type Each of the ten garlic groups prefers a particular climate zone. We have divided the country into three main garlic growing zones . Choosing the right garlic for your climate zone is the first step for growing big healthy garlic bulbs. 2) Prepare your garden bed Pick a sunny spot . I f possible use a garden bed which has not had any allium species (leek, onion, chives) in it for the past couple of years and ensure that your soil is rich in nutrients, light and well drained. Our guide offers more detail on garden preparation. 3) Pick the best time to plant The old saying 'plant on the shortest day and harvest on the longest' is a very rough guideline. Planting really depends on your climate zone and the type of garlic grown. Check out our planting guide for when to plant. 4) Find big cloves from big bulbs It's so important to only plant big cloves from big bulbs - research shows this provides the best results. Planting small cloves will almost always return poor results. If possible try to obtain bulbs from a higher altitude and southern latitude from your garden. These cloves from such bulbs will have more vigour when taken to a warmer and lower elevation. 5) Follow best planting practices Plant cloves not bulbs. The clove tip should sit to the top, and ideally planted 20x20cm apart and 2-7cm deep (the colder the deeper). For more planting information following our planting guide . 6) Dispose of the rogues Find the rogues! Keep a close eye on your crop for common problems or unusual coloration of leaves. Whether this be yellowing (nutrient or an infection), brooming, or multiple shoots. If it's affecting the occasional plant then dispose of it, if there are many then it might be a nutrient deficiency, a disease or a pest. 7) Fertilise y our soils While it is important to have your soils rich in nutrients prior to planting, it' s more important to put on th e right fert iliser at the right time. Choose organic slow release nitrogen fertiliser at regular intervals in spring (eg. blood and bone) for leaf growth. At maximum leaf number ( in most places 10-12), stop and change to an organic slow release potassium fertiliser (eg. potash) to enhance bulbing. 8) Weed, weed and weed! Garlic hates competition. Some growers use mulch to suppress weeds , while others do the hard mahi by hand. Either way, weed free soil ensures the best chance of larger bulbs. 9) Remove the scapes Most hardneck garlic will produce a scape, especially if you live in a cool to cold winter climate. While some hardneck garlics respond differently to scape removal, but it's best to remove the scape to give you a greater chance of a 10-30% bigger bulb. 10) Know when to harvest Harvest time depends on your climate zone and type of garlic grown. Harvest too early and bulbs have not matured, while harvesting too late results in the bulb skin splitting and will not store as long. Stop watering a month out , and follow our harvesting guide to know when to harvest your big healthy garlic bulbs.

Garlic Growing Guide - Planting garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Planting Planting is an exciting time in the garden, physically working the soil and starting new beginnings for your garlic crop. When to Plant When to Plant G arlic is generally planted in autumn, with the exact time dependent on your climate and the garlic group you are plan ting. The saying 'plant on the longest day and harvest on the shortest' is a rough rule of thumb which does not take account climate variations and garlic types. Check out the map and chart below to match your climate to the type of garlic you are likely to grow most successfully. Timing is a fine balance with nature, local microclimates and seasonal variability, and the best timing is not always achieved. For milder winters garlic is planted earlier and a bit later in colder areas. Garlic needs to be planted to send out roots before being struck with the winter extremes of driving wind, generally drier cooler air and chilling exposure. The strongly bolting hardneck garlics are more hardy in cold climates. Those in extremely cold areas should plant a month before the soil begins to freeze giving the garlic time to grow roots. Some growers in more mild, humid climates who get persistent garlic rus t (a fungi) plant earlier to harvest earlier thus reducing the impact of this fungi in the warmer months when rust can be prolific. Some try growing turban or asiatic garlic which matures and is harvested earlier than other garlics. However by artificially vernalising and planting early plants are more at risk of secondary shooting (witches broom) or results in smaller bulb sizes. Climate Zone Map Generally the first garlic to be planted are the semi-b olting garlics of turban , creole and asiatic . These garlics are well adapted to long seasons and milder winters because they are more domesticated. The strongly bolting garlics of porcelain , rocambole , standard purple stripe , marbled purple stripe , glazed purple stripe and the softneck artichokes should be planted a little later. Silverskins are the last to be planted in June-August depending on where in the country you live. Consider the for your climate zone, your local conditions and the type of garlic you are considering growing to decide the best time to plan t . NZ Garlic Climatic Zones MILD WINTER COOL WINTER COLD WINTER What to Plant What t o Plant First things first, plant garlic cloves not bulbs - c loves are the divided segments that make up each bulb. The clove skin is not removed. While it is possible to plant the entire bulb, bulbils or true seed (near impossible to find in NZ), the average NZ gardener plants cloves in their vegetable garden. If planting bulb ils for the first year you actually plant the m at the same time as cloves or you can also plant them in spring as well. Secondly, cloves are planted with the pointy end up. The stumpy end has the basal plate from which the root buds will begin to swell in autumn ready for planting. Plants will send down their roots from the basal plate deep into the soil in the cold winter months well before any leaf growth comes out of the pointy top end. Cloves planted upside down will grow but are likely to have stunted growth using a lot of their stored energy to find the surface . Plant only the largest and healthiest cloves. There is a direct correlation between parent bulb size and harvested bulb size. Research suggests there is a ten-fold significance in success in bulb size based on large bulbs compared to large cloves. Also, cloves from a large bulb will generally have a larger harvest bulb compared to the same size clove from a smaller bulb. Interestingly massive bulbs with more cloves have a poorer survival rate. Yet there will always be variation in growing bulbs but consider using large cloves from large bulbs to produce healthy , plump garlic bulbs. Do not plant cloves from bulbs purchased from a shop that is sourced from beyond our shores. Overseas garlic (you can tell because most supermarkets will state the country of origin and/or their roots will be entirely chopped off) poses a disease risk to our soils. Overseas garlic is normally treated with methyl bromide during fumigation and is also likely to have sprout inhibitors. How to Plant How to Plant Garlic Beds or Pots Depending on how much garlic you wish to grow and how much space you have, you might need to form a garlic bed. Garlic can also be successfully grown in pots, however avoid plastic pots where possible as it does not permit the soil to breath compared to clay pots. For pots they should be ideally be 50x50x50cm in dimension if growing only a few. A kiwi typical family (if there is such a thing?) might use 10-20 garlic bulbs per year. Depending on the type of garlic this means a family might need around three bulbs for planting with an average 6-8 cloves per bulb. However, some cannot get enough garlic to eat and might consume 100+/year thus needing at least 10-15 bulbs to divide into 100+ cloves to plant in their garlic bed. Check out the garlic planning diagram to determine how many plantable cloves for each type of garlic. If you wish to only grow a small number of cloves then you could just find a small pocket in your vegetable garden to poke them in. It is worth putting a few sticks into the soil to delineate where you planted them since they are in for a long time. If you have a dozen or more cloves then it is worth designating an area as a garlic bed. If growing in a free-draining raised bed there is no need to mound up the soil. If planting into a ground-level bed then consider raising the soil 20-30cm to ensure that the bed does not get waterlogged during the colder winter months or during those spring deluges that occur particularly up north. We grow ours on 30cm mounds, with the troughs for walking between rows filled in using wood mulch. We make our garlic beds no wider than a metre. This ensures that we can reach all parts of the soil from both sides when planting, applying organic fertiliser, removing scapes and during weeding. Spac ing T he more space you can give an individual clove the better. Wild garlic origins are from the cold and sparse highlands of Central Asia where there is little competition and thus garlic developed to only grow a few thin leaves. Spacing should allow the plant to maximise exposure to sunlight (> photosynthesis), root mass (> nutrient uptake) and air circulation (< risk of disease such as rust). The more space you give garlic the more sunlight and uptake of nutrients will occur from the soil. At Gourmet Garlic we have done several spacing trials and found that planting cloves only a few extra centimetres further apart makes a massive difference to plant health and bulb size. If you want to plant just a bulb or a couple worth of cloves then a short row or two can be planted in the garden bed beside other vegetables - keep in mind that garlic leaves can rise up to a metre tall and may shade other plants. While we are a small commercial grower, like the average home gardener we do not use machinery. Also like the home gardener we would love more room to plant garlic. W e plant our garlic cloves 12cm apart with 20cm spacing between rows. This gives us around 40 cloves per square metre. The generally accepted method is 10-15cm apart in rows 15-30cm apart. Ideally, we would like to have more room for them and space cloves further apart (even our trials tell us this) such as 20x20cm apart (25 cloves/square metre) but our garden space just like at home is at a premium. Our pathways between beds are 40cm wide allowing for a narrow walkway between beds to inspect the plants, undertake weeding, and remove scapes. If you have a lot of garlic to plant consider making a dibble hole jig. The jig will create several holes in the soil at the right soil depth across your row in one go. Ours is simply a narrow strip of wood just over a metre long, with five protruding bolts to make the row. On each bolt we have used a small strip of watering hose as a sleeve between the bolt head and timber. Our spacing and depth are shown in the diagram below. Depth The depth to plant cloves depends on your climate zone and the size of the clove. Those with mild winters barely have to poke the clove into the soil. This would mean the top of the clove sits only a couple of centimetres from the surface. Those with cool winters should plant with 2-5cm of soil on top. In cold climates, it is suggested to plant cloves 5-7cm below the soil surface to protect the clove from the winter extremes and to reduce the chance of frost heaving the clove to the surface. If the clove is large then consider placing it slightly deeper to allow for the longer length of the clove. It is not an exact science. Generally the top of the clove should have a covering of at least 2cm. If your soil is light then you might also sow deep as the roots have a tendency to push the clove upwards during winter and exposed them at the surface. If this happens carefully dig a minor pit beside the clove and put the clove deeper without disturbing the roots. Method This is a simple process. Make the holes for the cloves to the relevant depth. You could use your index finger to make hole and pop the clove in or use a jig. Ensure that the soil is moist, otherwise it will dry out the clove hampering growth and germination. Take a clove from an earlier cracked bulb. Holding the wider base, place the clove into the hole with the pointy end up. Once a row is completed gently apply soil to cover the holes. Early harvesting garlics like turban and asiatic garlic will take about a 1-2 weeks to show leaves, while mid-late harvesting garlics could take six weeks as they rely on cold soil temperatures to trigger leaf development. You can always check root and leaf development by gently digging down in the soil to check.

Artichoke garlic type Artichoke Garlic Group Mid Season | Med ium Storing | 10-20 cloves The Reliable: The best all-rounder loving most climate zones, is happy in a braid, and has a clean taste Artichoke garlic is named after the appearance of the clove layer pattern which looks a bit like an artichoke flower bud. This garlic is a popular mid-season softneck garlic and is considered to be the most adaptable garlic for all soil conditions and climate zones. This garlic group produces many cloves per bulb and can be plaited despite its wide leaves. It is often cropped commercially due to its high number of cloves, no scape removal required and its relatively long storage life. It grows best in a mild to cool winter climate . This is a non-bolting garlic type meaning it does not send up a flower stalk known as a scape unless under stress. Under stress it does produce neck bulbils and a large, wide scape. This garlic has a mild simple vegetative flavour. Characteristics Clove & Bulb Appearance The bulb is normally a flattened oblong globe shape , generally white to tan in colour with purple blotches on the bulb wrapper (skin) particularly in cold climates. The bulbs contain between 10-20 cloves. The bulbs are generally larger than the other soft neck silverskin group. Artichoke garlic normally has multiple layers of cloves. There are often at least ten plantable cloves per bulb. The remaining inner cloves are small, tall and angular thus being less suitable as planting stock. The clove skin is often a dull, matt-white or cream colour. The outer cloves are typically plump square, flattened wedge with three flatish sides shaped with long tails on the outer cloves. The inner layers of cloves are tall, thin, roughly square sided or angular. Artichoke garlic typically stores for 7-9 months in ideal conditions. Bulbils T his softneck garlic generally does not send out a scape (flower stalk) unless it is stressed particularly by cold weather. Under stress they can produce clusters of neck bulbils on the lower half of their pseudostem . Those plants with bulbils will not be able to be plaited. Their skins are normally purple to dark purple in appearance and extra large (7-12mm) in size - the largest of any garlic . Leaves & Scapes Artichoke garlic has more sideways leaf growth compared to the silverskin softneck group. The leaf is very wide compared to other garlic groups and they tend to have leaf-flop halfway up. Thus they can be described as having a more horizontal spreading leaf appearance. Plants can tend to lie over close to harvest time. The leaf is a yellow- green colour. This garlic is easy to distinguish from silverskin and other garlics as it has a visible pink arrow at the stem of each leaf and is a softneck. Under stress ( particularly with chilly spring weather) this garlic can (rarely) produce a large scape with a purple blotch.

Garlic Growing Guide - Preparing to grow garlic GARLIC GROWING GUIDE The ten steps of growing garlic Preparing Before planting it is necessary to select your site, prepare the soil, consider pre-cooling bulbs (more on this below) and cracking your cloves from the bulb. Soil Soil Preparation Soil preparation is probably the single most important aspect of growing great garlic. It is often overlooked. An important point is that there is a big difference between dirt and soil. ' Dirt' is potential soil, while 'soil' is rich in nutrients, alive with biological diversity and deep in organic matter. Site Sel ection Garlic likes plenty of sunshine, so find a site that receives plenty of full s unlight. We have run several trials over the years and have found that shady parts of our beds reduce bulb size by 20-30%. It is important that over the winter months and early spring that the young plants get plenty of morning light. This will help the plant dry out quickly which reduces the chances of getting leaf diseases. Garlic does not like strong wind, so plant in a sheltered area. Ideally, soil preparation should begin 1-2 years before planting. If you can't wait to build soil consider adding a good quality compost to your garden beds. The bed should not have had Allium species (garlic, shallots, chives, leek, onions, spring onions or chives) growing in it for the past couple of years. We operate on a three-year rotation - growing only once every three years in the same soil. This will reduce the risk of soil disease and nutrient depletion . Root, leaf and fruit plants require different nutrients and create different soil biological diversity . If you are replanting your bed following the growing of a garlic crop it is best to next grow a leaf crop (eg. spinach, lettuce, broccolli), followed by a fruit crop the year later (eg. tomatoes, beans, peas) before replanting garlic. While it might be impractical, ideally Allium species should not be grown in the same bed for three years. Keep in mind that good garden soil has a ratio of 25% air, 25% soil solution (water and nutrients) and 50% soil particles (a mix of clay/sand/silt). Add too much water or have too much of one type of soil particle and your garden produce will be less productive. Soil Health Garlic is a long-period root crop. Unlike many seasonal crops taking three months to grow, garlic is in the soil for 7-9 months. So the soil must be healthy and in an optimal state before planting and during the seasons for leaf development and bulbing stages. If you have brought in new planting stock consider placing it in quarantine bed for a year or two to isolate from other garlic where bulbs have potential to import disease or pests. Soil should be deep (ideally > 40cm) for roots to penetrate well into the ground. Soil should also be friable looking crumbly, not caked nor a fine powder. It takes years to build and maintain your soils with rich compost, however, this can be quickly remedied using purchased good quality organic compost. Try to avoid using plastic bagged compost or manures as some growers find they get poor germination results. Being a root crop, having optimal soil conditions sets the bulb up to be healthier and stronger from the outset. Before planting it is best to loosen the soil to break up clumps and reduce compaction with a fork and aerate the soil. This will help with water, oxygen and nutrients penetrating deep into the pores of the soils. It is important not to over turn your soil as this will mix up the natural layers (horizons) of the soil profile and ultimately upset the delicate soil biota. The 'L' or the living layer is the top horizon of soil and the most biologically active with worms, slugs and snails. It sits on the 'O' or organic layer which is mostly decomposed organic matter. The 'A' layer or active soil which contains decomposed matter and mineral particles is below this. Care needs to be taken of healthy garden soil. Healthy soil is teeming with biological life which is hard at work breaking down larger organic matter, fixing and cycling nitrogen, and even working directly with the garlic roots. The soil biota consists of megafauna (worms, slugs, snails >2mm in size), mesofauna (0.1-2mm such as mites), microfauna (<0.1mm such as nematodes, roundworms and protozoa such as flagellates that live in fine water pores), and microorganisms which make up the most abundant and diverse of the soil communities such as bacteria, yeast, fungi, and algae. Take care of the soil and the garden will provide for you. Moisture Garlic prefers free-draining soils, not too wet but moist . Raised beds only 30cm high can make a massive difference in the success of your crop particularly if you have a wet season. Soil borne fungal, bacterial and viral diseases can cripple your plants if they are in a water-logged soil. If you live in a wet area and if your garlic is not in raised beds then consider raising the garlic beds slightly higher than the surrounding soil. At Gourmet Garlic we mound our soil up by 10cm and between beds have a free draining mulch layers as pathways. If you are in an extremely wet area consider raising each row by 30cm above surround soils. If you have clay soils which retain water then dry and become solid in spring then extra effort is needed to break up the clay and mix it with organic matter. As for sandy soil which holds little moisture and nutrients, it's worth also undertaking a soil building programme of organic matter with compos t ing. Soil Nutrients While garlic can survive in nutrient deficient soils, for healthy and large bulbs, garlic needs a nutrient rich soil with a relatively neutral pH (around 6.5 -7.0pH). You can buy a cheap pH and soil moisture tester from most hardware stores or garden centres. Add elemental sulphur (it will not readily leach) if the soil is too alkaline or lime if the soils is too acidic. It is important to have ideal soil nutrient conditions in the soil before planting as garlic is a heavy feeder. Garlic grows roots almost immediately after planting and is in the soil longer than any other vegetable. I nitially, garlic needs nitrogen-rich soil so consider sources of nitrogen to mix into your soil in preparing the bed. Some growers use a cover crop of nitrogen fixers, while home gardeners might add their own compost of grass clipping, seaweed, worm juice, aged manures or other available organic fertiliser. There are a few organic fertilisers available in hardware stores and garden centres too to assist with increasing your soil's essential nutrients. These semi-commercial garlic growers use no artificial nitrogen inputs with great results. They prefer natural additives like guano, bonemeal, and sheep pellets. Aged manures can be good to add to soils before planting, providing not too much is applied. Ensure that the manure is not too nitrogen rich. Nitrogen-rich chicken manure for example might need a stand down time or be mixed into the soil well before planting (at least two months) to ensure the garlic roots are not burned on contact. Note that many manures will contain seeds and will introduce unwanted weeds. We use organic fertilisers to cure imbalances. Generally, soil organic matter and micro-organisms are far better at curing imbalances although taking time to break down and release their blend of nutrients via natural processes. Consider applying blood and bone, matured animal manure, potash, gypsum and other organic material. Nitrogen is important for leaf growth which is needed early on in growth, while phosphorous is important for root development in the later stages of garlic maturity to get good bulb sizes. Vernalisation (pre-cooling) Vernalisation (Pre-cooling) Garlic needs cool winter temperatures of 5-10°C for 1-2 months for the bulb's development. In most parts of the country this is a normal winter temperature. In the warmer northern climates of NZ with their milder winters natural vernalisation might not be achieved. In this case growers may choose to artificially vernalise their bulbs before planting by placing them in the warmest part of the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks before planting. Most garlic cloves are ready to plant in autumn. You might discover some of your cloves in the bulb are beginning to sprout. Normally, if you can see exterior shooting, then the plant is past the ideal planting time. Ideally the yellow-green sprout inside the clove should be about halfway up internally within the clove. If you are unsure you can cut a clove lengthways and see its development and then add it to a meal. Cracking Cracking/Popping Before planting cloves it is necessary to separate them from the bulb. Cracking bulbs should be undertaken on the day of or the day before planting as cloves can dry out once bulb wrappers have been removed, which might help diseases, encourage the swelling of roots and begin sprout growth. So crack on the day! Only the bulb wrapper (skin) needs to be removed, not the clove skin. It is important to separate all cloves from the bulb. The divisions in the basal plate can sometimes be very difficult to detect. We find the softneck silverskins and artichoke types the most challenging to crack. What appears to be single cloves can be several closely joined. You can often see a fine crack in the basal plate of the clove which is the dividing line between cloves. The small and often misshapen cloves in softnecks will grow regular shape bulbs but they will be smaller. Save the tiny ones for eating. In cracking, look for the large bulbs with large cloves which will put the most energy into the early stage of growth . Growers have found that large cloves from large bulbs provide the most success at harvest with good, healthy-sized bulbs. Cloves should be firm. Ensure that you check each clove for any disease such as mould, rotting or other imperfections. If there is any doubt, throw them out (the entire bulb not just the individual infected clove as the disease can be spread). Sometimes, particularly for the cracking hardneck bulbs, the clove skin may tear. These can still be planted providing there is no bruising or they have not been cut by fingernails. Take care not to damage cloves that have been cracked/popped before planting. There is an art in cracking. Do not crack bulbs from the base as this can damage root buds in the basal plate making the clove less vigorous. One of the best ways to crack involves three steps: 1) Run your thumbnail around the false stem above the clove tips to break the bulb wrapper 2) Grab the false stem and twist it vigorously 3) Apply pressure down and out to break and remove the bulb wrapper Ensure cloves are put in a breathable container or bag with good air circulation until it is time to plant. It is important to avoid them sweating, heating up and getting mould. Store for planting away from heat, out of direct sunlight and at room temperature. Pre-treatment Pre-treatment Some growers sterilize their cloves before planting. This is because the clove may have come in contact with a leaf disease from bulb skins or have had mites infecting the clove. This will result in the best start for strong growth for the garlic clove in the germination stage. While at Gourmet Garlic we do not pre-treat cloves, we would do if we were having problems with diseased plants. Growers may choose to sterilise the clove to reduce fungal problems. There are a few options. If the clove has not shooting then some growers soak cloves for 2-3 minutes in a hospital grade chorine bleach (Sodium hypochlorite) before rinsing in water. If cloves are shooting then add 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use the same technique. Alternatively some growers use a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda or potassium carbonate per litre of water to dip cloves in before planting. Some users also use neem oil. These are considered less effective than the bleach treatment. Some growers use a 5% alcohol (vodka) and water mix to sterilise cloves from infection and pests before planting. In addition some garlic growers elect to give the cloves an added benefit by soaking them in a seaweed solution (1 teaspoon of solution per litre of water) for less than 12 hours to enhance root growth.